New York’s Fashion Week has approached its mid-cycle, and with more than 20 well-known designers — both established and rising— having sent their fall ‘09 collections down the runway, the trend of the season emerges. The stygian military looks of last winter have returned in full force (with G-Star setting the pace - think military cuts and drop-crotch pants with tough zipper details and faux-rivets), only this time infused with the romance of gaslight Victoriana.
Manifested in lace-heavy looks, velvet, and draped dresses, the trend was most favoured by top designers like Diesel, which featured slightly undone grunge looks heavily based on lingerie and corsets. Max Azria with their nearly all-black collection boasted positively bondage-esque with sheer designs bedecked with opaque ribbons and a truly Victorian edge.
Other steady themes of the week have been metallic fabrics, leathers, and embellishments. Pants have been higher-waisted and trim. There has been an emphasis on the waist - cropped, nipped-in jackets and second-skin dresses with the curious contrast of heavy ruffles and shoulder pads.
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